Friday, August 14, 2020

The Legendary Spirit of Mumbai - The Rains and the Trains

The recent Covid pandemic has again brought Mumbai to its knees. By cutting the lifeline of Mumbai - the local trains. The local trains have been known to run faithfully for over a century, I think, save for once every decade when record breaking rains bring Mumbai to its knees. The trains are known to run 24 hours, day in and day out, weekend and week days, holiday or no holiday. It brings the loyal Mumbai workforce from far flung residential colonies in satellite towns to the heart of Mumbai.

When I was in Mumbai we had record breaking rains in the months of June and July that again brought Mumbai to a standstill. But not reporting to work was like a sin. My co-employees from Mumbai still reached the nearest railway station and as far down south by train as possible in spite of the waters reaching dangerous levels. And then they Whatsapped their precise location, with a note that they could not proceed any further and were returning - or still stuck up! That is the legendary Mumbai spirit! This was also true of the residents in the co-operative flat that I stayed in. One proud father was heard boasting how far down south her daughter was able to go and still report to office, the last stop before the rails were completely submerged at Sion, and again at Parel.

No wonder that when Amazon decided to open its Landing zone for their AWS platform that has to run in spite of any calamity, natural or man made, they chose Mumbai! And maybe it is this spirit of Mumbai and its workforce that makes many corporations to make Mumbai their headquarters in spite of  overcrowding and soaring real estate prices.

The rains made Mumbai roads and everything else very filthy. I had to wade through knee deep evil looking water that was full of grime, mud, petrol and disintegrating tar to reach the bus stop or auto stand to get to the nearest railway station and switch from shoes to flippers. The auto guys still ran without complaining or raising their fares but they were limited by the intensity of the rain as the vehicle would lose control once the water rose above the wheels.

The trains made a sound similar to a rainstorm approaching as they approached the railway station and suddenly braked, and then departed in a couple of seconds. It was the same sound the rains made when they started pouring day in and day out for weeks. I usually welcome the sound of rain, but that experience made me nervous at hearing that very sound as the rain turned into a deluge almost half submerging my Activa and almost all the parked cars in the locality up to the foot board. It was like Mumbai was an island in the middle of the sea with occasional squalls passing over it.

Clothes get damp and start rotting, walls start leaking, big patches appear on the walls, the rooms have a musty smell. No wonder the millionaire Gujrati businessmen wear cheap cotton T shirts and sandals and carry moldy leather wallets in monsoon. I was glad when the rains finally stopped.

Today the Covid situation has put a stop to the locals and brought Mumbai to its knees again. I can very well imagine the agony of the average faithful Mumbai office-goer with that legendary Mumbai spirit for not being able to turn up at office!



Monday, August 10, 2020

Mumbai - People and Places with Character

 The one thing about Mumbai is that just as the people have such a unique memorable endearing character (Bombaiyya style you call it), the places too have a unique character and flavor about it.

When I first came to Mumbai I was told that I would have to get down at a place called RK. I jogged my mind and the first thing that came to mind was RK Studio. I asked if that was so, and the answer was affirmative.

I have heard of almost every place in Mumbai- in Bollywood films, in newspaper advertisements - every company worth its salt has a corporate head office in Mumbai.

Talking to a Mumbaikar gives you a strange feeling of actually taking part in a Bollywood movie- the slang that you have heard in so many of the movies, old and new, you experience first hand and you have to pinch yourself to think if this was for real. Every Mumbaikar is a mini version of a Bollywood movie star complete with movie style slang and dramatic gesture. When you bump into someone on the local train and he says with  a dramatic flourish - "Ayy bhai, jarra dekhe chalo" - you think, where have I heard that before?!

And the autorickshaw wallahs! Autowallahs in every city have their own peculiarities. The Bangalore ones for overcharging, being rude gangster types with their infamous one-half charges. The Mumbai auto wallahs are never short of fare. They will go long distance or short distance and they will always get another fare at the end of the trip- Mumbai being so packed.

Mumbai autowallahs will return you the exact change - even if it is one, two or three rupees and they will go precisely by the meter. They will actually be surprised if you ask them to keep the change. They are a talkative lot. They will curse the government or praise it; or comment on some political party; or give you a commentary on the latest sensational political news topic.

Mumbai is the Indian version of New York and Hollywood rolled into one!